Friday, November 30, 2012

Camera Notes: Drift HD Ghost

Also neglected to mention this one...  The successor to my favorite Drift HD is now out.

It looks like it's pretty much the same as the Drift HD, with a few deltas:


  • Higher video quality is claimed, dunno what they mean by this
  • Two-way remote for positive confirmation of status
  • Remote is still flat, which is kind of fucked up IMO
  • Continuous/tag mode; probably good for a car camera actually; not sure how useful it will be for paintball
  • Wifi -- they're a little vague about what can be done with the Wifi, just like every other fucking manufacturer is vague about this shit.  I got three letters for you assholes:  API.
  • Still photos during video recording -- not sure how useful will be for paintball
  • Buttons are on top; slight improvement, makes them easier to find.
  • Screen and housing it are slightly different; slight improvement, might be easier to clean
  • Status LED on front; meh.  Technically a disadvantage for paintball.  Electrical tape that bitch up.
  • 60/100/120fps modes
  • Selectable CODEC
  • More than an ounce heavier -- BAD

So it has some neato features, but I'm not sure if the majority of them are a benefit for paintball.  The features they added seem to make it more suited to a car cam or pet cam or something.


Thursday, November 22, 2012

Camera Notes: Sony HDR-AS15

Neglected to post anything about this camera, but the competition seems to be heating up for the action cams.

Sony announced this one a while back, and from inspection:
  • Smaller than a Contour...  but requires the exo-suit, which bulks it up again
  • Only mounting method apparently through the bottom, unless you do something really custom with the exo-suit.
  • Uh...  accessory door blocks the mount?  So no external accessories can be used with the mount, or the exo-suit for that matter.
  • Apparently there's an accessory that will plug in through the bottom that will turn the thing into more of a traditional camcorder, which is kind of neat, but not worth the cost of inflicting the above problem.
  • Removable battery
  • 120fps mode
  • Wifi transfers enabled (possibly alleviates lack-of-display issue)
  • Appears to have Steadyshot; probably digital
  • One review shows the thing has focus issues; looks like someone farted on the right side.  Not sure if it was a bum unit, but it's always a fucking pain in the ass getting this stuff resolved with manufacturers.

But here's the killer...  the lens is not rotatable.

I know this sounds like a minor thing, but considering that the mounting is so limited, then sometimes you might need to orient the camera in an unusual fashion, which is OK as long as you can...  rotate the lens to compensate.

I think I'm going to have to set the Drift HD as the gold standard for this category, because it has a standard 1/4"-20 thread, and while mounted, can be adjusted along the vertical (or whatever axis is perpendicular to your mount surface) AND has a rotating lens.

If you're going to go after the GoPro, you can't replicate its flaws.

Otherwise, it seems like a decent action cam.  But again, the market is heating up...

For the weight (90g) and the Steadyshot capability, this might be an interesting cam for RC use...

Monday, November 5, 2012

Where the fuck are the Tippmann videos?



LULZ.  I'll have more to say on this later.  Going to count off the number of ways these guys suck dick.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

"Self Cleaning Barrels", aka "You're Full Of Shit"

Ran into this while browsing the forums:

http://www.lapcopaintball.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=40

"Self-Cleaning:  Shoot through the occasional ball break -- no need to swab."

I have never seen a barrel shoot itself clean.  NEVER.

This falls under the larger category of "Barrel Bullshit", but I do not recall seeing a single published accuracy test relating to "self cleaning barrels".  Because then people would realize it's bullshit.  Just like Hammerhead barrels.

Your accuracy goes to crap and will remain crap until you run a squeegie through it.  Paintballs are not squeegies.

The only way you can possibly claim that a barrel "shoots itself clean" is if you constantly run your barrels in filthy condition, in which case you never notice the difference in performance.  And if you're one of these folks, I think we're all better off if you just learn to shut.the.fuck.up.com.  .org.

And yes, I did own a aluminum Bigshot way back when.  For my Automag.



Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Revamped Automag Classic, Part 2


The changes I've made to the components surrounding the Automag would make it cheaper, lighter, and arguably more functional (three things I was told were impossible). Sure, there is the "quality" argument. So I have to make the quality counter-argument: if I reduced the quality, how much did I reduce it by? How much "quality" was lost by removing the retarded ass wings? Say an aluminum rail has a lifetime of X. I reduced the lifetime by what? Half? What if the rail lifetime is 50 years? Do you care when you can hop right back onto Shapeways and print a second one up after 25 years? Do you know how much a fucking decently milled aluminum rail costs, particularly if you include the anno?

How does that argument pan out against the original composite frames, which are still in use today? How much quality was lost switching from the aluminum single-finger triggers to the composite ones? Because we all know that people love those composite frames (don't forget the plastic triggers too!) and continue to use them to this day. Except for the fact that they didn't have an option for double triggers, so people resorted to shitty hack jobs. Something which I addressed.

It should be somewhat obvious by now: those guys are fucking talking out of their asses.

If a user wants to throw money at the heavy duty (and decorative) aluminum upgrade parts, by all means, let them. Otherwise, a perfectly functional low cost alternative is available.  That’s how you make money.  This seems to be something that a few manufacturers don't understand. Maybe that's why "there's no money to be made in paintball."

Anyways, I'd like to do the same with the valve. It obviously won't be plastic, but I think that modern production methods as well as, quite frankly, not making the fucking thing out of stainless steel (hey dickhead -- how much "quality" was lost going from stainless steel to aluminum?), will bring the cost down. I'd love to take the design, hand it off to a machine shop, and get a price for a run. And then make a few changes and see how that affects price. But I can't. I don't have the design. Nobody but AGD does.

What I think should happen is that the Automag design should be opened up, or licensed in some similar fashion. I do value IP, so I think that the community should consider getting together and paying off whoever needs to be paid off to release the design. That allows either a large manufacturer to give it a shot, or maybe a small group of individuals to commission small runs of stuff, as we have seen a lot of in paintball. Or something like what I did, which was just draw up non-critical parts and just have a 3d print shop make them. I mean, if there's "no money to be made in paintball", and the owners clearly don't give a shit about any of this anymore, why wouldn't they take their money now and let the next sucker have a crack at it? There is just something not mentally right going on with the involved parties.

I've mentioned this idea, notably on AO, and some fucking shithead keeps trying to shut the discussion down. He has no interest in Automags or anything else. He has no business data, no manufacturing data, no technical data... absolutely fucking nothing. The only thing he has is some anecdotal stories from nearly 2 decades ago. Really, he only seems interested in being an apologist mouthpiece for TK's really shitty decisions. I'd call him a fucking shill like the others, but that's being too kind.

But he IS interested in some fruity fucking project that involves gluing superfluous steampunk bullshit to his gun. That's real fucking interesting. Fucking LARPers. Or hey you know what would be great? A forum for discussing religion!


WHAT THE FUCK?


Is this guy fucking for real? I'm over here proposing what should be obvious, trying to improve stuff, drawing shit, getting stuff made, and actually testing it, and he's doing WHAT? Why the fuck am I even addressing him? Fuck him. Throw him on the ignore list where he belongs.

But what does the community do? It fucking sends money to ... I want to say "buy" the forum, but they didn't even do that. They just paid for its relocation. FUCKING RETARDED.

It's fucking foolish to contribute to saving AO when we should be trying to buy the IP for the Automag and find a way to open or license it out somehow. All of those guys just threw their fucking money at a bunch of nothing. They won't even export the fucking forum databases for some unknown reason. I mean, it's the data that the community wants to protect, so why not fucking export the tables? If he had offered exported media of the databases as kind of a perk for donation, I would understand. But this was just fucking layers of stupid upon stupid.

I think we'll have to simply accept the death of the Automag as a foregone conclusion, which some people seem more than happy to help usher along.

Revamped AGD Automag Classic

WORK IN PROGRESS (Need to upload pics)

I've been somewhat reticent in the last few posts because I've been actually working on stuff.

Well, stuff finally came in.






Regulator Back

AA vigilante aluminum replacement. You guys have seen this already, and know it cuts the weight down considerably.


The Main Rail


The main rail is the single most overlooked part of the Automag.  It really only has two places to go: either it needs to achieve its full potential (see below for an example), or it needs to be folded into the grip frame.  Meanwhile, everyone else is obsessed with (mostly) decorative milling of aluminum rails for some reason.  Milling some fruity pattern doesn’t make the rail more functional; it just makes it lighter.

This rail removes the stupid wings, uses a press-fit sear axle, has ULE cuts, compatible with classic pim, and has the classic ASA adapter mounting geometry. 1.3oz, which puts it very close to the lightest known aluminum rail. (It costs $55 to print at Shapeways, which is kind of spendy, but then again, check how much a good ULE rail will cost you, including the anno).


The Trigger


This was my first trigger ever; it’s totally functional, but I’m not exactly happy with it.  In fact, I think the next one I draw will just be a simple stick, like on my Tiberius, which I am perfectly happy with.  Having drawn one of these, I have to say that the original design of the trigger mechanism was actually quite clever.


The Barrel Adapter


The mag to cocker adapter I drew up is roughly based on Doc’s adapter, except:
  • It’s made of plastic
  • It doesn’t need a twist lock pin - the threads are undersized so when a barrel is threaded in, the end expands to press against the body
  • It has two detents
That yields a $16 part that’s 0.3 oz and locks pretty damn securely into the gun while still being removable without having to disassemble the entire marker.

The real beauty of the design is that if you can draw the threads, you can make nearly any mag to whatever adapter.  Just upgraded from a janked out Tippmann?  You can keep your barrel.  Or Ion?  Spyder?  Just get the right $16 adapter.


The Trigger Guard


The trigger guard was just made from the Intelliframe specs.  I think I’d go with a no-kink version next time.  It attaches to the hole which was recently vacated by the twist lock pin, via the mag2cocker adapter.  Yeah, it’s pretty ugly toward the back.  I just slotted the rubber grip to cram it in there.  There was no standard for cutting the single-finger triggers, so it’s hard to accommodate for that.  The real answer is to design the grip frame correctly in the first place.  Tippmann and BT did it correctly, and they’re borderline retarded.  The wrong side of the border.


The Top Rail

The top rail was grabbed from an Empire Trracer as some of you know.  The feed neck was cut off the body (another cost reduction).  A properly designed part, in my opinion, would just wrap around the Automag body and screw (or otherwise mechanically attach; it might not need to be screws) into the main rail itself.  Kind of like the useless sight rail of olden days.  Then the feed neck or spring feed or Rip Clip is securely attached to the picatinny on top, as it always should have been.


The Material

This nylon material is surprisingly durable.  It will tend to melt/fuse under high temps (like getting hit by a strong laser or a Dremel), and still has some flex when it’s thin (which I use to my advantage in the mag2cocker adapter).  But otherwise I’m actually quite pleased with it.  I have gone into the field with it, and will continue to do so.  The “black” material isn’t really black, as I discovered after sanding the trigger because I made an error.  It’s actually the white material, which I think they just impregnate afterwards with your color of choice.  The layer of the dye is reasonably thick and should hold up to some wear and tear, and if it gets scratched, you could probably just dye it back anyways.


Summary of Cost Reductions

  • No twist lock
  • No twist lock hole
  • No feed neck welding
  • No threading anywhere on the rail; just a press-fit sear pin which isn't threaded either
  • Reg back is aluminum instead of steel
  • Plastic rail
  • Plastic trigger guard
  • Plastic trigger

All of this is just proof of concept.  3d printing production parts would be foolish unless you intend to allow people to custom choose their options.  (Like a ULE rail with a built-in Gopro mount, or a mag to cocker adapter with 2 Ego detents and a Spyder detent because you’re ultra paranoid.)










Thursday, August 23, 2012

BT-4 vs. Classic Automag

A friend and I have had this long running debate which I think we finally settled this weekend.

We were debating what was the better gun -- a BT-4 (or whatever variant) vs. a Classic Automag.

Since he had never actually played with an Automag, and technically I have never played with a BT-4 (have played with a 98, and quite frankly, there is very little difference), I decided we needed and old fashioned gun swap and throwdown to decide the victor.  So that's what we did.

The results:

Automag complaints:
  • thought the trigger was too stiff
  • thought the paint was pulling to the left (After reviewing his footage -- it wasn't.  It was dead on, as long as he was, you know, pointed in the right direction.)

BT-4 complaints:
  • too large
  • too heavy
  • too wobbly
  • problematic chrono performance
  • THE GUN FUCKING FAILED (hammer o-ring came apart)
I honestly do not understand why anyone would buy a BT-4/Tippmann 98 over a Classic Automag.  They're both about the same price (Classics are only available used now).  The Automag is:
  1. far better designed
  2. far better made
  3. lighter
  4. more compact
  5. faster
  6. easier to maintain
  7. more reliable
  8. more consistent (because of...)
  9. has a regulator

The only advantage a BT-4 has is the ability to put an e-grip on there, cheaply.  Fat lot of good that does you without an anti-chop bolt though -- and ironically you can get an anti-chop bolt for an Automag.

There was a parts availability question, but the fact is parts last a very, very long time on an Automag.  The only major wear item is the power tube o-ring (010 urethane same size as Q/D, 008 for Level 10  bolt).  I've never had any other o-ring fail on me in the field.

Truthfully, the last 3 "failures" on that exact Automag are:
  1. Spyder detente broke on the mag->cocker adapter.  Aftermarket part.
  2. Piston o-ring broke on the Azodin inline regulator.  Aftermarket part.
  3. Level 10 O-ring went down in size -- changed carrier, still using the same o-ring.
None of these would affect a stock Level 7 Automag.

Automag maintenance looks like this:




Liquid Image Ego

New camera on the block.




They need to get certain issues worked out (like the Wifi turning itself off), but it looks like a fairly competitive camera.


Sunday, August 12, 2012

Paintball Battlegrounds (Edinburg, TX) Recap

Good
  • Ridiculously cheap to play there
  • Clean bathrooms
  • Fill station worked well
  • Refs were courteous, very responsive and on top of things; always ready to run games for us.  Cycled through 13 games while we were there
  • Spacious, covered staging area, close to all the fields
  • Rules and signs very clearly marked
  • New, well constructed bunkers and buildings
  • Fields were separated by netting
  • Fun field layouts
  • Good hours
  • Used armbands; armbands were actually well made and fit, and they had plenty of them it seemed

Bad
  • Lack of an expansive woods field; their existing fields were still quite fun though
  • Straight elimination games only; didn't seem to matter much here though due to field design
  • Lack of initial player briefing, which I've kind of come to appreciate
  • Presence of airball poses a potential problem with a recball field, but everyone there seemed pretty chill, unlike Camp Pendleton, which oddly doesn't even have an airball field
  • They were good about chrono'ing us, but the chrono station itself was a bit out in the open
  • Music playing interfered with some of the fields.  Just turn it down a bit, aight?
  • It's like...  in Edinburg.

No Data

  • Time limits did not seem to be in place, although our games were over very quickly

Truthfully, most of the negatives were kinda nit-picky.  Overall, this is one of the best run fields that I've seen.  It's new though, so we'll see if they manage to maintain the quality.




Monday, July 16, 2012

Camp Pendleton Paintball Park Recap

Good:


  • Games were run on a very regular/timely basis (cycled through 14+ games while I was there), announcements were loud and clear
  • I loved the bleachers
  • Time limits in place for games
  • Good organization; staff was tracking field usage, rotated us through all fields
  • Refs walked out with all players
  • Reasonably attentive staff/refs
  • Splitting advanced and new players
  • Attempted at least a little to balance teams
  • OK pro shop; better than nothing
  • Interesting and diverse field layout; it's really just a neat rec field overall
  • Plenty of fill stations
  • Good turnout of players
  • Food truck on-site

Bad:

  • REFS NEVER CHRONO'D GUNS
  • Douchey players who were obviously buddies with the refs.  Not everyone, but too many.
  • Loud music in staging area made it hard to listen for leaks
  • Only one ref watching our group; this was the "intermediates" though
  • Occasionally games run on adjacent active fields simultaneously
  • Air fills were a little gimpy; no fill station that I tried actually went all the way to 3k
  • Staging area/tables way too small for volume of business they had
  • Some of the fields could use a wee bit more construction
  • All games were elimination; no flag/objective based games at all
  • Weird pricing -- it was actually $2 more expensive to play with your own euqipment and buy half a case than to rent;  fortunately I only used less than a bag the entire day


No data:


  • Never visited the bathroom





Empire E-Vents

I picked up a set of these over the holiday break when Empire put them on sale (free E-vents with any Empire gun -- including the Trracer! Woohoo!).

I've been wearing a Vents Avatar for many years now, so that's sort of my baseline.

Differences:
  • Earpieces are separate and are a harder design with metal grills built in
  • Thus requiring small anti-rotation clips to prevent side panel rotation
  • Slightly heavier than Avatar (need to measure)
  • Minor difference in the mouth grill area

Pretty much all else is the same unless I missed something.

Personally, I still like the Avatar over the E-Vents.
  • Avatar is lighter
  • Single construction so you don't have rotating side panels or anti-rotation clips
  • Side panels don't ride on my ears as much
  • Better deal (my Avatar was cheaper, and it came with 2 thermal lenses; E-Vents only came with 1)
  • Softer

About the only thing the E-vents have going for them is the fact that the side panels are removable, so the mask is a little easier to pack for travel.  So the E-Vents will probably be my travel mask.

Side note: I do not like clear lenses; smoke/ninja lenses are better because I seemed to be getting too much glare in my mask. I could actually see my own eyes in there.



Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Visual Reviews: How To Have The Right Pistol Players Setup







Pistol Fail 1:

You have a holster.

Pistol Fail 2:

It’s a thigh holster.

Pistol Fail 3:

You carry like 20 inches of squeegie for a 7 inch barrel.

Pistol Fail 4:

You carry the 20 inch squeegie out in the open on a thigh rig where it gets covered in the dirt that you’re supposedly crawling around in.

Pistol Fail 5:

Lanyard on pistol.

Pistol Fail 6:

Ginormous dump pouch.

Pistol Fail 7:

That thing on your wrist?  Hilarious.







Who the fuck is this guy? You know what? It doesn't matter. Don't be a fucking pistol poseur.



Visual Reviews: Tippmann Tpx Desert Tan Overview and Giveaway



This guy is NOT a fucking pistol player.  You can tell.  "i own two tpx's".  That doesn't make you a pistol player.  Going out and fucking playing with the pistols, and by that I mean not having them ride around in holsters, makes you a pistol player.

1:50 How can throwing it in your gear bag damage it if it's made by Tippmann and it can never break?

2:35 Authentic barrel scratching barrel blocker action!  OMG it's so cool, it's like the 90's again!

3:03 "If you've got this holstered..."  Hey buddy, why would you have your gun holstered?  Maybe you need to free up your hands for some cross-country skiing?

The whole reasoning behind why the barrel plug is cooler than a bag is just stupid.  The only reason you need a plug is because the front end is too fucking fat for a standard barrel sock.

3:55 "It's a Tippmann product it will never break on you."  What the fuck dude, is this a fucking paid advertisement?  The 8-round mags were Tippmann products too; why did they have to switch to 7 rounders in the first place given this logic?

4:40 "Any X7 threaded barrel will work."  BULLSHIT.  Pull your head out of your ass and try again.

5:40 Starting to talk about the fucked up plug like he's some kind of old timer.  He's not.  The old technologies were not necessarily better either.  The lever changer on the SA-17 works better, or at least did before they fucked up.  Clearly Tippmann has not been in the sport long enough to realize that 12g lengths CAN FUCKING VARY.  He's just babbling now.

6:15 The whole point of the pierce assembly is the fact that this gun is NOT designed for pistol players; it's designed for assholes who tote their pistols around in holsters all day.

7:19 The idiot lanyard.  In case you're an idiot and you drop your entire fucking gun or something.  Maybe it falls out of your gay decorative holster.

Notice they didn't put a retainer on the CO2 plug, which you are MUCH more likely to drop.  Real fucking smart.

7:35 "Ergonomical" is not a fucking word.  Are you fucking drunk again?

7:43 "If you're left or righty, it feels awesome."  Although the safety and mag release are not ambidextrous.  Way to point that out.  Asshole.

7:50 You know you have to drill the fucking hole yourself if you want to run remote?  Fucking lazy ass Tippmann.



Fucking Tippmann shill.



Journalistic integrity:  I'm betting this guy was given his TPX's.


Monday, February 27, 2012

"What's a good beginner gun?"



WORK IN PROGRESS

This is an oft asked question.  And it is oft answered as well.  Rather poorly, I might add.

What is a good beginner gun?

The answer?

There is no such thing.

Due to a combination of circumstances, including boneheaded players, boneheaded manufacturers, and some relatively recent low cost markers, there is no “good beginner gun”.

You can only separate guns roughly into two categories: good guns and shitty guns.  (Or maybe “cheap guns and expensive guns”.)


Criteria:  Price

As of recent years, good paintball guns have been targeted at the lower priced segment of paintball.  Small, light, efficient electros used to easily cost $800+, but since the advent of the SP Ion, a good electro can easily be had for ~$300 new.

The best example of the lower range of performance and value is nearly anything made by Tippmann.  This includes the ‘98, the A5, the X7 Phenom, and even the TPX.

All of Tippmann’s products are made to be as cheap as possible.  This is why they’re made out of pot metal and have generally poor manufacturing results like overspray and lack of finish on parts.  The top of the line is the X7 Phenom, which runs $400, although that does include a hopper.  But even dropping $400 on a Tippmann still doesn't get you a particularly competitive marker.  I mean, the thing doesn't even have eyes.  And don't give me any shit about the Cyclone.

On the other hand, an Invert Mini, which is a perfectly good gun, comes in at $325 new.  Or something like a Proto Rail for $240.

The flipside of this is that you need to have two other pieces of equipment to feed such a high performance gun:  an HPA tank (prices have come down on those, but still far more expensive than a CO2 tank), and a hopper.  Ironicallly, as fast guns have gone down in price, comparably fast hoppers have actually gone UP in price -- to the point where arguably the best hopper -- the Dye Rotor -- costs nearly $200.  A Prophecy Z2 will run $170 new.


Criteria:  Upgradeability

You want a gun that might start out as a beginner gun, but can be upgraded to a high level marker.  Currently, no such gun exists.  If you start out with a Tippmann 98, then the best you will get out of that will still be a Tippmann 98.  It's not like you can upgrade a '98 all the way to an Empire Axe or PE Ego.

The closest we ever came to this was going from a Spyder to a classic Intimidator, but that was really because the original Intimidators were just expensive dressed up Spyders with pneumatic rams and 3-ways instead of hammer springs.

Most "upgrades" for paintball guns then simultaneous waste your money while not actually making your gun any better.  In fact, sometimes they're worse than the stock parts.  This has gotten a little better over the years with the economic culling of manufacturers, but so long as demand for worthless parts by worthless players exists, there will still be shit parts.


The myth of the “backup marker”

Some people say that they can relegate the beginner marker to their “backup marker”, when really what they’re doing is making a shitty justification for marker whoring.

The purpose of a backup marker is to keep you in operation as much as possible.

Why then would you have a marker that was DIFFERENT than your primary?  So you can carry twice the amount of specialized parts kits?

If your intent is maximum uptime, then your backup marker should be of the same type as your primary.  It should share functional parts with your primary.

If the first gun goes down, you go to the backup.

If the backup goes down, you at least have a chance to Frankenstein a third working marker with parts from both guns.

If nothing else, at least you only have to carry spares for one type of gun, not two.

This is the kind of stupid, illogical shit that runs rampant in our sport.


Bottom Line

Beginners should not be buying paintball guns.  Their focus should be on learning how to play better so that they become intermediate players as quickly as possible.  This is independent of whatever gun they are using.  Once they become intermediate players, the question is moot.

The most practical advice:  start out with protective equipment like mask and knee pads.  Good masks can be had quite affordably and are well worth the money.  The importance of protective equipment is nearly on par with the paintball marker.  After all, you can’t hit what you can’t see.  Usually.

Continue to rent or borrow until you are sure you really want to get into paintball, and then go for the gun you really want, instead of wasting money on some shitty “starter” gun.  By that time, you should be smart enough to know that a paintball gun doesn’t have to cost $1000 to be effective on the field, and you will have saved a lot of money by not upgrading a pile of shit.

Also, do your homework and learn your equipment, and you should be able to buy your guns used at a significant discount.